The Saffron Trail - Part 1

Southend on Sea to Hockley

The Saffron Trail, a route devised by Essex Ramblers, runs across the county for 72 miles from Pier Hill in Southend to St Mary's Church in Saffron Walden. I've chosen this route for my winter walking as it's closer to home than the Essex Way. I got off to a glorious start this Saturday, with sunshine from dawn to dusk. It was so warm I nearly had a Rossi's ice cream for breakfast. Setting off from Pier Hill, the Trail heads westwards along the cliff top to Westcliff (wonder how they thought up that name), then along the promenade to Old Leigh. I'd walked this way in 2010 on my way around the coast. From Leigh, the Trail heads back up the cliffs via the Belton Hills nature reserve. There are fine views up and down the Thames Estuary. Having climbed up the hill, the route went back down again and into Hadleigh Castle Country park. The castle was a favorite home of Edward III and subject of a painting by Constable. Alongside the country park is Hadleigh Farm, the site of the Olympic mountain bike course. Most people will not associate Essex with mountains, but having walked up the hill I found it quite steep. I'm looking forward seeing the event next year. I had lunch (tuna sandwich) alongside the replica iron age roundhouse and enjoyed a sunny rest stop before tackling the second half of the walk.

The route between Hadleigh and Hockley consisted of several areas of open space, Hadleigh Great Wood, Edwards Hall Park and Hockley Woods, linked by the street walking through the suburbs of Southend. On the whole it was quite pleasant walking particularly the last few miles. The Saffron Trail is not a waymarked route so you rely on the accuracy of the description to avoid getting lost. Mostly the instructions were clear and concise, however at Edwards Hall Park, they went a bit awry. I was invited to head west towards a communication mast, when in it should have been east! Also, a mast might not be visible in poor weather. On the way to Hockley there were some very fine views across the Crouch valley with wonderful Canewden church clearly visible. At the end of the walk I enjoyed an ice cream before heading off the station to miss the train home.

14 miles 6.5 hours
Route details


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Fog, mist or low cloud....

White Notley to Coggeshall 6½ miles

The weather was decidedly gloomy for the next leg of the walk and increasingly misty the deeper into Essex I travelled. It was cool but not really cold when I got off the train at White Notley. Note to self: when travelling to this station be at the back of the train. I was in the front carriage and I swear it took me five minutes to walk the length of the platform to the exit. The end of the train wasn’t even visible due to the mist. This leg to Coggeshall included the usual footpaths and bridleways as well as two short stretches alongside busy roads. The John Ray Walk shares this part of the Essex Way, established to commemorate the life of a natural historian and Essex man of the seventeenth century.

By Fambridge Hall, I spotted a couple of pigs enjoying their mudbath, however one of them ruined my shot by getting up. Twenty minutes after leaving the station I found myself back there again, just in time to see the train on its way to Liverpool Street! The mist/fog/ low cloud prevented any views at all on the way to Cressing, where I stopped for some refreshment at the church. I passed the time of day with the man who had come to repair the roof. (Please sign this petition re metal theft). Near Cressing but not on the EW route are Cressing Temple Barns. The Wheat Barn,brick-built, and the Barley Barn, weather-boarded, were built by the Knights Templar in the thirteenth century. Attractions include a walled garden and a tea shop.

Next rest stop was Bradwell Church, another typical low church with a small broach spire. This one also had some medieval wall painting but was firmly locked. The route between Cressing and Bradwell was shrouded in mist and I managed to lose the Way again, just briefly by not paying close attention to waymarks. I don’t think this section is the most scenic though, passing an active gravel pit and a tip. From Bradwell , the Way follows the Blackwater valley for a couple of miles but the river was masked by trees.

Arriving at the Grange Barn in Coggeshall, I decided to call it day and catch the bus back to Braintree. Coggeshall is a village full of in interesting architecture, best saved for a brighter day. The number 70 was nearly ten minutes late and I arrived at the bus station with one minute to catch the train. I missed the train by four minutes and was marooned in Braintree for an hour. Time for a late lunch (ham sandwich, banana and orange juice from Sainsbury) before heading home. Coggeshall marks the halfway point along the Essex Way and I intend to resume the walk next spring when the days are longer.

Some Essex Way facts
Progress along the route 41 miles. Total miles walked 53.5 miles.

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I Don't Care What The Weatherman Says....

Great Waltham to White Notley 11 miles

Despite a dire weather forecast I set off at dawn to return to Great Waltham for the longest leg yet, to White Notley. Fortunately my magic umbrella managed to repel the predicted heavy rain. I got off the bus in GW to be greeted with blue skies and weak sunshine, another perfect day for walking. The village has some interesting architecture including this lovely old Tudor house.

The first part of the walk was through the grounds of Langleys, a grade 1 listed pile of the Queen Anne period. There was a pet cemetery at the end of the drive and an ornamental bridge over a water feature. Once out of the grounds, the Essex Way heads north and then east through several hamlets and villages on a variety of footpaths, bridleways and quiet lanes, with thankfully, only one muddy field to cross.

The first rest stop was at the church in Little Leighs, where I had to take refuge in the porch from the light rain. I spotted a pheasant showing off in the churchyard. I mislaid the Essex Way for a bit while crossing over the A131, not helped by the fact that new road wasn’t marked on my old map. However whilest off route, I did spot this strange sculpture from the bridge, variously described as orange ladybirds or giant beetles. It could be a bit off-putting if you catch sight of them while driving towards Braintree.

Following the valley of the River Ter, I had to deal with ten stiles in a mile and half stretch through various fields and pastures inhabited by horses, individually and in herds. After all that climbing, I was ready for another sit down at Great Leighs church. This church has a lovely Norman round tower on which some Victorian ‘improver’ has stuck a wooden spire. It looks like a witch's hat. Round tower churches are found only in East Anglia and this is one of only six in Essex. Round tower churches have their own society!

I passed the only pub on route a little before opening time but was deterred from waiting by a stern muddy boot warning. So instead I had a rather meagre snack (fruit, dried fruit and a Tracker bar) at the bus stop at Flack’s Green, Terling. Terling has one of the few smock windmills in Essex but I managed to miss it. The ford through the mighty river Ter was quite pretty. The weather started to change in the afternoon, clouds thickened up and it grew cooler and darker.

Last rest stop of the day was Fairstead church, which contains Roman brickwork and a little broach spire so typical of Essex churches. It also has some very old wall paintings, but I didn’t venture inside as my boots were rather muddy. The last couple of miles were completed at a goodly lick to ensure I didn’t miss the hourly train at White Notley. The effort was wasted as the train was delayed (by a car striking a bridge). Despite dire warning and leaden skies, I managed to get six hours of walking without getting wet. That magic umbrella really does work.

Some Essex Way facts

Progress along the route 34.6miles. Total miles walked 47.5 miles.
14 stiles on this leg

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