Sun, Sand and Sea in Sheppey

Well two out of three ain't bad.....

If Kent is the ‘Garden of England’ then the Isle of Sheppey is the bit behind the shed where you dump the rubbish. My first ever holiday was at Leysdown and this was my first visit since. My mother was so deeply traumatised by the event that she has never been back and shudders when I mention caravanning as a holiday option. Sheppey still has plenty of unattractive caravan parks but I was surprised to find that large parts were nature reserves, Swale (English Nature) and Elmley (RSPB). Leysdown is also very important historically as the first powered flight took place at Muswell Manor in 1909.

I had arranged to meet my friend Frankie in the Coastal Country Park for an eight mile hike around the Isle of Harty, the most easterly part of Sheppey. Using the miracle of modern technology, I had the kettle boiled and the bacon crisped as she pulled up. We revised our plans as we munched as the weather was cold, wet and windy. It was very pleasant watching the oyster catchers and redshanks from the comfort of the van. I prevailed upon Frankie to drive us a mile up the bumpy coast road, past the Nudist beach, strangely empty, to Shellness. Shellness hamlet is a collection of coastguard cottages that now appear to be bijou holiday homes.

Our destination was the Swale National Nature Reserve, a mass of saltmarsh grazed by cattle and home to a variety of water fowl, foreign and domestic. I would have enjoyed the wide views and big skies, but my vision was blurred by the raindrops on my glasses. We took refuge in one of the hides and Frankie introduced me to the fine art of birdwatching. She identified about twenty different species, from small brown jobs like greenfinches to much larger birds like greylag geese, curlew and heron. I enjoyed the peacefulness of the hide and appreciated the great variety of birdlife that can exist in one place, but I’ll never have the patience required for this hobby. It all got quite exciting when Frankie thought a beautiful bird with black wing tips might be a Montague's harrier, a rare visitor to these shores. Phone calls were exchanged between experts and texts dispatched before the bird was identified as a male Marsh Harrier, later confirmed by the bird book.

We returned to the car and thence to the van and went in convoy to the Harty Ferry Inn for a well deserved lunch and a stroll to the local church. With the caravans hidden from view, you could really enjoy the views of the Swale Estuary and salt marshes, imagining yourself back in the days of smuggling and convict hulks, such is the isolated nature of the place. Or just lose yourself in nature for a couple of hours in the company a good mate.

Fingringhoe Wick

I had arranged to meet up with friends Frances and Trevor for lunch, afternoon walk and tea. I live in south west Essex, my friends live in north west Essex, so naturally we agreed to meet up at Tipree, which is on the other side of the county. Our rendezvous was the Tiptree Jam Factory which I'm sure is a tourist attraction unique to Essex; you can buy jam, eat jam and look around the little museum. Despite some rather dire weather warnings, it was a very pleasant mild autumn day with plenty of blue sky and the occasional ray of sun.

Our ultimate objective was Fingringhoe Wick, a nature reserve on the Colne Estuary not far from Colchester. This reserve, owned by the Essex Wildlife Trust was created from old gravel pits and has a variety of habitats; ponds, heathland, woodland and best of all the saltmashes. The views over the Colne Estuary from the tower on the Visitor Centre were terrific.

We meandered around the reserve, pretending to be bird watchers. Not difficult really as there were loads of them practising formation flying over the river. I guess the trick is to be able to identify them. Frances spotted a kingfisher and we think that the flying formations were geese, possibly Brent. There were hides dotted about all over the reserve and many, many seats, a testament to how many people really loved the place.

We were enjoying a post-walk cuppa in Archie (my van) when we were approached by a man carrying an axe. He turned out to be the very friendly and informative warden making sure we had enjoyed our visit. We had found yet another quiet, beautiful, relaxing place in Essex. Who knows, the lesser spotted librarian might become yet another frequent winter visitor!

Alternative Essex Tops - Part two

The Essex unitaries

What a difference a week makes! Unlike the previous Saturday, the weather was damp, gloomy and distinctly chilly, which made it difficult for photography, if not for walking.

This week’s objective was the two Essex unitary authorities of Thurrock and Southend along the Thames Estuary. They gained (or in Southend’s case regained) their independence from Essex in 1998. Most people are probably aware of the dubious charms of Southend and only associate Thurrock with Lakeside with shopping. However both places have played an important part in British history. Tilbury Fort (in Thurrock) is the place where Queen Elizabeth fired up her troops to defend England against the Armada and Southend was one of the first places to be bombed by Zeppelins in WW1. Both are quite hilly places for Essex, Southend has its Cliff Railway and Thurrock has Langdon Hills which rise out of the Thames flood plain.


Heath Mount (Southend-on-Sea) 197ft

Southend has twin peaks about a mile apart so I had hoped to join them up in a circular walk but total GPS failure, poor map reading and disinclination but paid to that. Heath Mount is a small part of Belfairs Park and Nature Reserve (also confusing known as Hadleigh Great Wood). It was a mixture of broadleaf woodland and golf course, well populated with walkers, runners, dogs, cyclists, horse riders and golfers. I had a pleasant stroll of about half a mile through the trees to the bit of wood identified as the highest point and marked with dog poo bin.



London Road A13 (Southend-on-Sea) 200ft

I meandered on through the woods and over the golf course but found myself back at the car park and not in the nature reserve, so I gave up, hopped in the car and relocated myself about a quarter mile from the Southend border. All you can say about the stroll to the top was that it was uphill. The top is marked by the Welcome to Southend sign. Southend is twinned with Sopot in Poland, which is a seaside town with a long pier, more like identical twinning. Normally there is quite a good view over the Thames estuary from this bit of the A13 but about the only thing visible in the gloom was the gas flame at the oil refinery.


Langdon Hills (Thurrock) 377ft

Essex, particularly the south-west bit, is well served by country parks, which probably explains why I haven’t visited Langdon Hills more often. It straddles the border between Essex and Thurrock and spread over several different sites linked by footpaths and bridleways. I opted to park at One Tree Hill as this was nearer the top and the gradient less steep but the Langdon Visitors Centre (on the Essex side) is well worth visiting, particularly the Haven Plotland Museum. This tells the story of the Essex plotlands, little chunks of land bought up by Eastenders who spent their weekends in the country.


From the car park there was a fine view east towards Southend and the woods I had just visited. The walk took me through woodlands up to Langdon Hill. The actually top of the hill is on the Essex side as are the grand views west towards London, obscured on this day by the murky weather. The top of Thurrock was along the boundary fence of a very posh house with no view whatsoever. Using map and compass I managed successfully to join up the waymarks that took me past a fine old oak and onto a bridleway back to One Tree Hill. I had to avoid Essex Girl Racers galloping along listening to their Ipods, getting back to Archie as the rain started to fall in earnest.

Despite the murky weather and unpromising topping material, I had two very enjoyable walks and discovered somewhere new in my own backyard.

The Old Oak

Alternative Essex Tops – Part one

The London Boroughs

Bored by my recent inactivity and missing out on the fine October weather, I spent last Saturday topping in my own backyard. I made an early start, surprised the postman parking his van across the drive way and set off to conquer the heights of south west Essex.

In 1965, the London Boroughs of Barking (renamed Barking and Dagenham in 1980), Havering, Newham, Redbridge and Waltham Forest were forged out of twelve municipal boroughs in south west Essex. There is plenty of open space around in this crowded part of Essex. A large part of Epping Forest lies within Waltham Forest and Redbridge and is managed by the Corporation of London. Hainault Forest was purchased by the London County Council in 1906 and is managed jointly by Redbridge Council and the Woodland Trust. Hainault was used as tree nursery for other parks and roads throughout the GLC. Even in Dagenham, we have one of the largest nature reserves in London, a haven for wintering wildfowl and home to the rare black poplar tree.

Marks Gate (Barking & Dagenham) 141ft
07.50

The highest part of the borough is the Marks Gate area where apparently there was once a windmill. The top is an indeterminate area on Whalebone Lane just past the cemetery. I have driven up and down this road countless times before finding out it was a top. I now can’t resist mentioning it every time. There is no chance of view due the urban sprawl but this shot (taken within the borough) shows what it once looked like. (There are no real hills in Dagenham so they built one in the Country park where you can pick several landmarks along the Thames).



Cabin Hill (Redbridge) 295ft
08.40 & 12.45

Hainault Forest Country Park is about 7 miles from home and was quite busy with dog walkers, joggers and cyclists at 8am. It was also covered in frost, slightly misty and distinctly chilly. However the sun was shining in a clear blue sky when I set off. The plan was to walk up Cabin Hill and then follow the London Loop to the church at Havering-atte-Bower and back via a slightly different route.

There are some fine views south towards London but the morning mist hid all but a tall chimney somewhere on the Thames. The walk up Cabin Hill is moderately steep and very popular with mountain bikers. The Cobb family used to visit Hainault quite a lot before the 139 bus stopped running. I seem to remember we were always trying to spot the cross of St Pauls Cathedral. We can’t have looking from the top of hill as the views are screened by the trees.

I followed the London Loop through the golf course, surprisingly empty despite the lovely morning and over some fields and bridle paths into Havering Country Park. Apart from one ugly tower block, it was easy to forget that urban London was just over the horizon. Havering CP was formed from an old estate and contains an avenue of Wellingtonias (huge redwoods that drawf the native trees despite being babies). They form a distinctive pattern on the skyline already. All the trees, apart from the Wellingtonias, were in their autumn colours which made it a very pleasant walk up the hill onto Havering Ridge.

Havering-atte Bower Farm & Havering-atte-Bower Church (Havering) 344ft
10.55 & 11.00

The next stop was Bedfords Park, another family favourite of ours. Although not the high point of Havering, it certainly has the best views. A wide expanse of London and the Thames, from the Queen Elizabeth II bridge, all the way to Tower 42 and the Gerkhin in the City. Red deer have been kept at Bedfords Park since the 1930s as a reminder that this part of Essex was once a Royal hunting park. I enjoyed some light refreshments at the new visitors centre run by Essex Wildlife Trust before retracing my steps towards Havering village. The village is on a plateau on Havering Ridge so the highest points could be either the church or by the farm entrance. Also on top of the ridge is the Round House (it looks like a water tower but is a house) which is a useful landmark.


The return trip took me back along the avenue of Wellingtonias, avoiding the troops of cavalry (Havering CP is very popular with riders). Then north across fields to Bournebridge Lane, then west to pick a footpath back to Hainault CP. It was a rather weary plod along the Three Forests Way, a circular route linking Hainault with Epping and Hatfield forests. I enjoyed a brief pause at the top of Cabin Hill before returning to Archie down the grassy hill that I rolled down as a child, taking great care to avoid any holes. The walk was about 8½ miles and took me almost 5 hours to complete.


Pole Hill (Waltham Forest) 299ft
14.55

After a spot of lunch and a cup of tea, I drove to Epping Forest about 7 miles away and parked opposite Queen Elizabeth’s Hunting Lodge. Epping Forest stretching for 12 miles from Forest Gate in Newham, north to Epping stopping just short of the M11 junction at Harlow. The Centenary Way links all the surviving bit together starting at Wanstead Flats and finishing at Epping Station, joining up with Essex Way. The forest has always been a mixture of trees and clearings, rather densely afforested. Despite never being more than a mile from any road, it is still possible to get lost (or not in the place you expect to be) in Epping Forest.

Pole Hill is about a mile from the Hunting Lodge, but it was for me a very slow amble as my ankle was hurting having rather overdone the first walk. The sky had rather clouded over as well, but it was still a pleasant afternoon. I followed a footpath along the edge of Chingford Golf Club up a slight gradient. The path enters the forest by a big dip in the trees very popular with BMX riders. I managed to get one last reading from the GPS and walked in the correct direction towards the trig point and monument.

Pole Hill lies exactly on the Greenwich Meridian. It may be possible to make out Greenwich Hill with binoculars as there is a very fine view south towards central London and beyond, including the London Eye and some building works which may be the new Olympic stadium. I returned the same way I came and was rewarded with an equally fine view to the east where I could spot the Wellingtonias on Havering Ridge and Hainault Forest.



Wanstead Flats (Newham) 49ft
16.00

Had I possessed a bit more energy I could have walked the six miles to Wanstead Flats following the aforementioned Centenary Way. Being knackered I drove. Wanstead Flats aren’t actually in Newham, but the borough boundary runs along side it. I parked, took a picture and drove off. If you want to get a view in Newham, visit the Beckton Alps (familiar to users of the A13). This one-time artificial ski-slope was built on a toxic spoil heap from Beckton Gas Works. It certainly looks higher than 50ft, but as the light was fading and my feet were aching, I carried on along the A13 toward home and Strictly Come Dancing.

London - County and City

A capital day out....

Top Facts

What’s a girl to do on a warm spring day in North London? Why go county topping of course. After leaving my car for its pre-France service in Tottenham, I hopped on a 41 bus to Archway and from there I caught a 271 to Kenwood House. The 271 bus is a must for keen toppers as its route includes the high points of Islington (Highgate Hill 328ft) and Haringey (Hampstead Lane 381ft) as well as the top of the old county of London (and Camden 441ft), a bus stop in Spaniards Road, Hampstead, on its way to Brent Cross. It was a bit of shame that the actual top was an unmarked spot height somewhere near this bus stop.

The county of London is a bit of a Johnny-come-lately as it was formed in the late nineteenth century from the populous bits of Middlesex, Kent and Surrey. It was made up of historic boroughs like Holborn and Finsbury. In 1965 the Greater London Council was formed and 12 Inner London Boroughs emerged from the old county. Hampstead Heath lost its place as top spot to some interloping hills in the North Downs. The view from Hampstead Heath is spectacular and probably always has been. This photo doesn't really do it justice.


I thought it would be a bit of a cheat to ride the bus all the way to the top so I got out near Kenwood House and proceeded on foot. It was a gorgeous spring day and nannies were out in force. There were quite a lot of people at leisure in the middle of a working day. Hampstead Heath is managed by the Corporation of London who have kindly produced a guide to the many walking trails around the ponds, hills and hidden attractions.



The area also included the city of London geographically, but the city has always remained an autonomous corporation and is now the smallest of our ceremonial counties. The city of London is the oldest local authority in England. London doesn't have any real hills but it does slope up quite sharply from the Thames and the best place to see this is in the streets around Monument, like Lovat Lane or visit the delightful church of St Mary-at-Hill.

According to the trusty topping website the highest point of the city of London (72ft/ 22m) is the corner of Chancery Lane and Holborn but the road signs suggested that this was part of Camden. Not the most photegenic part of London, but well worth visiting, not least if you like shopping for jewellery at the London Silver Vaults or nearby Hatton Garden.

Honourable mention should go to Shooters Hill (at 433ft) the second highest top in the county of London and now top of Greenwich borough. The view towards London rivals Hampstead, although its probably best seen from the top of a bus. A few years ago Noddy and I followed the Green Chain Walk (section 3) to Shooters Hill and we had a great view over the Thames towards Dagenham. I could easily pick out the block of flats near my house (in the centre of the picture). On the south side of the hill is Oxleas Wood, also well worth a visit with fine views towards the North Downs.

The Shropshire Marilyns - 10 hills in 8 days

A 'fell walking' experience

The trip to Shropshire had been long in the planning. My ambition aim was to complete all ten Marilyns in eight days. I felt singularly unambitious after reading that one hill bagger had tried to do them all in one day! All the hills were quite close togther and better still quite close to campsites. What I hadn't planned for was spraining my ankle after falling on hill six which put paid to any attempts at the last four. Until I went spinning through the air on Heath Mynd everything had been going to plan.

The first campsite had excellent views of the Clee Hills and of Ludlow, with High Vinnalls behind. Ludlow was lost in the haze but looked quite pretty at night after an excellent sunset. The weather on arrival was great and I even spent some time dozing in my deck chair in the warm sun! The campsite was about three miles from the summit of Titterstone Clee hill (and clearly visible in the photo).

Saturday morning was clear, bright and warm when I set off for hill No.1. According to the map, this should have been quite easy, just pick up the Shropshire Way which ran past the campsite and follow it to the top. I found the path easily enough and followed it over numerous styles before the signage disappeared. No problem, I'll just use my GPS to put me on the right track, however the external battery purchased especially for this sort of predicament, was dead!. I forced to use my map reading so opted for the easy option and followed the road up the hill.

The hill had been extensively mined and like so many tops was covered in radars and aerials. The map indicated that the Shropshire way went over the top to the trig point, but the only way up that I could see was a very steep scramble up the mossy scree. Views from the top are extensive but reduced by the hazy sunshine. The Shropshire Way continued northwards towards tomorrow's target, Brown Clee Hill.

I had as much trouble finding the footpath on the way down as I did on the way up, so stuck to the road. I arrived back after 4 1/2 hours and collapsed gratefully into my deckchair. I'd covered 6 1/2 miles and climbed over 1300feet due to a rather undulating route. The summit was at 1750ft marked by a cairn and a trig point.

I moved on the next day to a new campsite near Craven Arms. I went via Brown Clee Hill. (See previous blog entry for details of that walk.) The new site was about 2 miles from the summit of Callow Hill, one of the smaller hills. I took notice of local advice and again walked up via the road to Upper Dinschope and then up the steep side of the ridge, through woodlands. I managed to find a less well used, overgrown path to the top. Only when my trousers were soaked up to my buttocks did I realise that I had some waterproof trousers in my rucksack.

Callow Hill is marked by this tower called Flounders Folly. There were brilliant views both east towards the Clee Hills and west towards Long Mynd. Callow Hill is at the southern end of Wenlock Edge, marked by the tower. It took me 3hrs to cover 5 1/2 miles and 930ft of ascent. The return route took me along a short stretch of the ubiquitous Shropshire Way. After lunch, I drove Archie to nearby Craven Arms for the second hill of the day View Edge.

I left the van at Stokesay Castle and ignoring the Shropshire Way this time, walked up a grassy slope towards Stoke Wood and followed a path around the base of the hill. View Edge is a bit of a misnomer as it was a round hill, covered with trees at the top and no view. There was no path to the top so I got as near as I could and turned for home to avoid the rain sweeping in from Wales. I got back to the van in 2 hours having covered 3 miles and 570ft of ascent. I had time to have a look around Stokesay castle before returning to base camp.

The next day the weather became quite autumnal, but the strong breeze kept the showers short and there was still plenty of sun to enjoy. My next camp was on a farm with great views of a hill I didn't have to climb and some extremely friendly chickens. They appeared like groupies every time I stepped out of the van.

The next hill on the list was Burrow which had a hillfort on top. I set off after lunch to follow what appeared to be a straightforward path to the point where access was allowed to the hillfort. I hadn't gone very far before I met some locals barring my way. They turned out to be nice quiet lads content to stare and allowed me to pass unmolested. At this point the route went awol and I had to rely on the trusty GPS to navigate my way pass the unfriendly signs to pick up the access path to the top.

I have to confess to climbing over a fence to get to the actual summit and if I had any sense I'd have returned the way I came. However, I decided that the quickest way down was downhill and followed a path that soon petered out amongst trifid-like blackberries. I emerged scratched and bleeding a long way from where I intended and had a very weary foot slog back including one brief but very steep climb that reminded me of the Puy Mary. It will be no surprise by now that the way back was via the Shropshire Way. (5 miles, 3 3/4 hours and 1160 ft of ascent!)

I moved on the next day to a rather expensive site in Wales which was the nearest point I could get to Heath Mynd. (The toilets were very nice and I used the wi-fi for free). I did a tour around to see if I could park close to the hill but this wasn't possible. I chose to walk up via the road and take the gentlest gradient but it still took quite a time. Heath Mynd has been openned up as access land so you can make your way to the top but there are no actual paths up the hill. The hill was covered in heather and bracken but luckily it was quite dry. Although sunny, there was a very strong wind especially at the top. The views were stunning: a full 360° panorama that took in Stiperstones to the north, Long Mynd to the east and Corndon Hill (a Marilyn just over the border in Wales).

Feeling rather chuffed at having got the top of a rather difficult hill (and not having learnt from previous mistakes) I took the quickest way down only to put my foot in a hole and spending 10 minutes writhing on the ground in agony. (At least it was a soft landing). Since helicopter rescue seemed unlikely, I picked myself up and made my way off the hill as best I could, sliding on my bum down the steep bits. Once back at the road it was mostly a downhill plod. I did try to hitch a lift but to no avail. I made it back to Archie just as the sun was setting, having covered nearly 8 miles in 4 1/2 hours with 1365ft of ascent, most of it limping.

Further walking was out, so I spent the remainder of the trip admiring the view from the next campsite, which was located just west of Stiperstones. The view was towards the plain around Shrewsbury and the Pennines in the far distance. It wasn't so bad as I had access to wi-fi and spent my idle hours catching up with Strictly Come Dancing.

However I have some unfinished business in Shropshire (The Wrekin, Caer Caradoc, Pole Bank and Stiperstones). I'll be back!

Shropshire - outstandingly beautiful

It's got a lot to Offa!

Top Facts

Shropshire is a county of contrasts. It is mainly agricultural and rural, yet it was the birthplace of the industrial revolution. Ironbridge Gorge is a major heritage site and I've made several visits over the years but not on this trip. There is evidence of the mining industry all over Shropshire, particularly near Stiperstones. The Bog Visitor centre is a good place to go and find out about the industrial history of Shropshire whilest enjoying a very fine afternoon tea.

Shropshire has plenty of historic interest from earlier times. Wroxeter, near Shrewsbury, was one of the largest Roman towns in Britain and has some fine remains. Offa, King of Mercia, built a very large earthwork with the intent of keeping the Welsh out and this now forms part of the long distance trail known as Offa's Dyke Path. Shrewsbury and Shropshire play a large part in the Brother Cadfael novels of Ellis Peters. The local tourist board have devised some Cadfael tours of the countryside. The Shropshire countryside is very beautiful and there are lots of little country towns, ruined castles and country houses to make a very enjoyable visit.

The Shropshire Hills in the southwest of the county are classified as an area of outstanding national beauty in 1958. The Discovery Centre in Craven Arms houses an exhibiton about the hills, including a simulated balloon flight. There are plenty of hills besides the ten Marilyns I intended to climb. The Clee Hills are the highest ridge and the most easterly. Moving west you find Wenlock Edge, Long Mynd and Stiperstones. The Wrekin (shown left), just south of Telford, is probably the most well known hill as it rises from the plain slightly detached from the more southerly hills and has a distintive whaleback shape. The Wrekin became a unitary top in 1998 on the formation of Telford and Wrekin Council.

Brown Clee Hill (1772ft/540m) is the highest point in Shropshire. It was the second hill on the trip having warmed up on Titterstone Clee Hill the day before. It is the highest top for me so far. It was a very mild, if slightly overcast day when I set off from the picnic site about a mile from the summit. I decided to to the steep part of the climb first and get it over with, through woodlands onto the moorland at the top. The top is marked by a topograph and radio towers. The views would have been extensive but for the haze. Although a long way from anywhere it was a popular spot and I didn't have long to enjoy the view in solitude.

As well as walkers and cyclists, there were some rather wild looking ponies to contend with. The return path was over the moors via the Shropshire Way (which featured on most of my walks)and through estate land. (4.05 miles, 2hr 30mins 778ft of ascent).

Views of the Shropshire Hills

10 Hills in 8 days

This was my ambitious plan for a weeks walking in Shropshire. Well I thought it was ambitious until I read that someone attempted to do all ten hills in one day. All my plans fell apart when I put my foot in a rabbit hole and sprained my ankle. I managed to hobble the three miles back to the van but further walking was not possible.

I did however managed six hills in five days, walking over 30 miles, and climbing over 6100 feet of ascent, roughly eight times the height of Canary Wharf or the equivalent of Ben Nevis and bit extra.

The Shropshire Hills are in an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty and are well worth a visit if you have never been. They are uncrowded and unspoilt.

London Loopy

Erith to Old Bexley

Last Monday I took a trip over to the dark side (south side) of London for the autumn leg of the London Loop. Section 1 covers the eight miles from Erith on the banks of the Thames to Old Bexley in Kentish suburbia.

To read full details of my exploits click here.