Fun and frolicks on the South Downs

I chose Brighton for my first camping trip of the year for several reasons, not least, meeting up with former colleague Robbie. Two weeks ago Britain was in the grip of a new ice age so I was relieved when temperatures started to rise. The chosen campsite, Sheepcote Valley, is to the east of Brighton, handy for Brighton Marina. It was full so it was lucky I booked.

The first part of my trip was to bag Cliffe Hill, a Marilyn, which is rather tricky as the summit lies on the 12th green of a local golf course. My plan was leave very early, avoiding the toll at the Dartford Tunnel, get to Lewes around dawn and using the element of surprise, get onto the golf course before any of the golfers. It was a good plan and it got off to a good start, as I arrived in Lewes around 7am. The hills were helpfully shrouded in cloud which would provide some useful cover when trespassing on the golf course. Then things gradually fell apart; I was too early for the car park; I was in the wrong part of town; I got lost getting to right part of town. The church clock was chiming eight when I finally headed up Chapel Hill on the very steep climb up the downs.

The downs were still helpfully shrouded in mist as I made my way across the golf course on a footpath. I left the footpath and headed to the top but lost my nerve and exited the golf course to see if I could find another way. I wasted another half an hour before deciding the only way was to brazen it out. By now golfers, singularly undeterred by limited visibility, were everywhere and the cloud cover starting to lift. I lurked behind a bush until the green had cleared of players, before leaping out to take my photo and get the hell out of there. I'm suprised no one had called security to get me evicted as I kept bumping into the same group of golfers, whilest assuring everyone I wasn't lost.

On my return to Lewes I had a wander round, bought something to read from a charity shop and had a cuppa. Other things I might have done; visit the castle, visit Anne of Cleeves House, take a walk by the river or shop for antiques. Lewes is pleasant country town and a good base for touring the South Downs, the newest of our National Parks.

The weather was mild but rather gloomy so I settled into my van with a good book, The Other Boleyn Girl by Philippa Gregory, but alas no food as I'd left the soup behind. Saturday morning was also rather drizzly so I stayed put reading until I noticed that the van was rather warm, a sure sign that the sun had come out. I emerged blinking into the sunlight and headed off to the Marina, which was a bit like Brent Cross with boats. I thought about going to the cinema but opted for a bracing walk eastwards along the coast to Rottingdean, with bus ride back to avoid walking into the sun.

The sun was shining brightly on Sunday when I returned to Lewes to meet up with Robbie. We walked up Chapel Hill to the golf club and then onto the open downs above Lewes, eventually climbing up Mount Caburn, a much nicer hill than Cliffe. There are views along the South Downs to Ditchling Beacon to the west and Firle Beacon to east, both Marilyns I'd climbed with Noddy the dog. Robbie and I continued down the hill to Glynde for a pub lunch and caught the train back to Lewes. We'd probably still be chatting now if Robbie's wife had not rung to offer him a lift home.

The Saffron Trail - Parts 3 and 4

From Battlesbridge the Saffron Trail heads north over rolling countryside to Danbury and then west to Chelmsford, the county town. Section 4 starts in the centre of the city following the river Can west through parkland and then north along the route of the Centenery Circle, finishing in the pretty village of Great Waltham. Due to the length of the route and the shortness of the days in December, I covered the distance over three days.


I set off from Battlesbridge on a glorious winter day, clear blue skies and a biting polar wind bundled up in four layers of clothing. I soon warmed up as the Trail went up and down over several small hills. The ground was frozen and the stiles were slippery adding a frisson of danger to the expedition, at one point I nearly skidded off a plank bridge. The first four miles are across open countryside along field edges with some wide open vistas. The route passes through a deserted churchyard just south of East Hanningfield. The old church burnt down in 1883 and was rebuilt in the village rather than on the old site.

After a brief stop at the new church, I continued on to Danbury, a large Essex village on a hill (367ft/112m), said to be the highest point (at that latitude) west of the Urals. Danbury has a fine church with a tall spire (unusual in Essex) which you can spot from the A12. There is a panoramic view from the war memorial, mostly of Chelmsford unfortunately. Danbury is an excellent place to go walking as it is surrounded by accessible land. The Saffron Trail goes over part of the Common, now owned by the National Trust. Nearby is Danbury Country Park where I left Archie on the second day of the walk. Set within the grounds of Danbury Palace, there are ponds, woods and meadows, a good place for a picnic.

I returned to Danbury on Christmas Eve with the hope of getting to Chelmsford inside 2½ hours, arriving as dawn was breaking. However a combination of a head cold, the cold weather and getting lost in the country park meant I didn’t get quite as far as I intended. The trail heads north from Danbury down a really steep path to Lingwood Common, also owned by the National Trust. It then passes through a beautiful meadow in the grounds of Riffhams, a Grade II listed building. I spotted a bunch of cross country enthusiasts disappearing into the distance. The Saffron Trail shares part of its route with the Admiral McHardy Way, named after the founder of the Essex Police Force.

The last couple of miles west into Chelmsford are along Grace’s Walk, a dead straight bridleway and then along the banks of the river Chelmer, which were rather muddy. The river was canalised in the eighteenth century and linked Chelmsford with the open sea via Chelmer and Blackwater navigation. Back in the 1980’s I organised a trip along the river for my library colleagues from Paper Mill Lock. You pass three different locks on the Saffron Trail and I spotted several narrow boats at moorings. The only river traffic apart from ducks were canoeists from a local club.

I abandoned the Trail at Barnes Mill Lock and headed back to Maldon by bus. I returned on another cold day, enlivened by some blue sky and the occasional ray of sun. The idea was to quickly finish off section three and then continue onto Great Waltham. However fate played a different hand. The usually exemplary instructions were a little ambiguous and I ended up walking a mile along the river Chelmer rather than the river Can. I discovered that Chelmsford has some very pleasant waterfront areas. Amazingly I don’t think I ever been to town centre before. Chelmsford is currently applying for official city status as the Queen will create several new cities as part of the Jubilee celebrations. It does have a cathedral which I suppose is a bit of a head start.

The canoeists were out in force along the River Can and there were plenty of dog walkers, cyclists and locals out and about in Bell Meadows and Central Park. A little further west is Admirals Park and Tower Gardens where I stopped for a mid-morning rest. The Saffron Trail follows the western edge of Chelmsford north on a series of footpaths and bridleways that form part of the Centenary Ring, a 21 mile circular walk, devised to celebrate a hundred years as a borough. Nothing very exciting happened on the way to Great Waltham. I stopped at the Walnut Tree for lunch but they weren’t serving food so I ate my emergency salmon sandwich surreptitiously while enjoying the warmth and a pint of lime and soda. This time I managed to arrive in Great Waltham five minutes before the bus and headed home.

Battlesbridge to Chelmsford 14¾ miles
Route details

Chelmsford to Great Waltham 7 miles
Route details

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