Walking the Essex Coast - Fobbing Horse

There is no more access to the coastline until you get to Canvey Island. Oil refineries stretch for several miles eastwards to the next inlet at Holehaven creek. It is possible to reach this creek by footpaths from the village of Fobbing. Fobbing is a quiet village on a small but very perciptible hill, overlooking the marshes, but views of the Thames are blocked by the oil refineries at Coryton and spoiled by the mass of electricity pylons. Fobbing has a violent and bloody past. It was one of the villages that started the Peasants' Revolt in 1381. Amazingly it was once famous for smuggling as Fobbing used to have a harbour and access to the Thames. The church has a very distinctive tower that must have been a landmark for sailors in times gone by.

In complete contrast to the previous day, the weather was extremely raw. There has been a heavy frost overnight which made it slippery under foot, it was windy, cold with rain threatening. Unsurprisingly I met no one of this walk. I set off downhill along Wharf road, onto the marshes and atop the flood defences. It was possible to see all the way to the QE2 bridge, about 10 miles.

The frost had hardened up the ground but it was exceptionally heavy going. This area is one of the few remaining areas along the Thames where grazing still takes place. Pre-industrialisation the whole Thames estuary was a prime beef raising area. The cows had churned the whole route into a Grimpen-like mire which made the walk seem much further than it was. One of the cows had escaped and was clearly in possession of the sea wall, so I made a detour to avoid it. Clearly one that stood out from the herd.

The target was the flood barrier at Fobbing Horse on Holehaven Creek. On the other side of the creek is Canvey Island but I couldn't see it as the sea wall was too high. I didn't relish a return trip across the bog so I followed a footpath along a farm track, past the lone cow's mates, Fobbing ponies and Ouzedam farm, completely overshadowed by the many oil storage units and huge flare which is clearly visible for miles. I returned to Fobbing along cycle track and muddy path and finally up the steep little hill to the church, where I sat and admired the view in watery sunshine.

To see more pictures of the wonderful Essex coast click here.