The next estuary north of the Thames is the Roach. The river rises in Hockley woods, flows through Rochford, becomes tidal at Stambridge Mills and flows into the Crouch between Wallasea Island and Foulness, a distance of about ten miles. The first few miles of the southern bank from the mouth of the river at Naze Point to Potton Island are inaccessible, being owned by the MOD. It is possible to walk from Barling Ness on mainland Essex to the lowest bridging point near Rochford. The first couple of miles west are along the sea wall and then over fields and through an industrial estate to the disused flour mill on the north bank where the tidal range ends.
I covered the distance from Barling Ness to Rochford over two days of the finest weather of the year to date, wall to wall sunshine tempered by a chilly easterly breeze on the coast. My base was the campsite at Shopland Hall Equestrian Centre, a place populated entirely by women with ponytails, tight trousers and knee length boots. The camping field was adjacent to old churchyard. Shopland Church was severely damaged by enemy action during WW2 and was subsequently demolished but the churchyard is rededicated annually. It was a pleasant camping field, very quiet at night but I was disappointed to find the café closed at teatime.
Barling Ness was about five miles from the campsite along some very busy country lanes. I picked up the sea wall at Little Wakering and followed it as meandered alongside several creeks towards Potton Island. Despite the lovely weather I only passed one family of walkers during the five hours I was out. I had lunch sitting on the headland overlooking the confluence of the Roach and a creek called the The Violet. To the east is the mysterious military Potton Island and to the north is the boatyard at Pagelsham on the north bank. In contrast, the north bank of the river was very popular with walkers.
The sea wall runs for a couple of miles past yet another landfill site and farmland. The Roach estuary is quite wide compared to the length of the river. I took my binoculars for a spot of twitching but all I saw were seagulls. The slight elevation of the sea wall makes for good all round viewing. Several miles to the north is the church at Canewdon which sits atop a little hill making a great landmark; to the west are the abandoned flower mills and a very singular white factory chimney which mark out Rochford. Walking west it was impossible to avoid seeing the tower blocks of Southend. The cottages and church are in Pagelsham on the north side of the river.
At the end of the sea wall the footpath went inland past a couple of very nice farmhouses. At Sutton Hall someone had a very large train set. I eventually came to Prittlewell creek, negotiated a field with some very inquisitive ponies, wandered through an industrial estate before picking up the Roach Valley Way, a 28 mile circular path, to Stambridge Mills on the north bank of the river. The flour mills have now been abandoned and will probably get developed into expensive riverside properties. There are motley fleet of house boats in various states of disrepair at the end of the navigable section of the river.
Rochford is an old market town with a regular Tuesday market in the Town Square. Rochford Hall was the home of Ann Boleyn’s sister and the town was probably once a flourishing port. Next to Rochford Hall, which is now a golf club, is the fine church of St Andrews with a very impressive brick tower. A puritanical sect known as the Peculiar People originated in Rochford during the nineteenth century. All these facts and many more are provided by Rochford District Council in their two excellent guides of the area, a fact that Slough Council could take note off.
Rochford District Heritage Guide
Rochford District Visitors Guide
To see more picture of the Roach Estuary click here
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