Wallasea Island, fourth largest island in Essex, is bounded to the north by the River Crouch; the River Roach to the east and south; to west and north west are Pagelsham Pool and Pagelsham Creek, which flow into the Roach and finally by Lion Creek, an inlet of the Crouch. I’m not sure it’s really an island as a small land bridge separates Lion Creek from Pagelsham Creek. It is however, pancake flat and very, very empty
Human settlement consists of one campsite, one pub, one marina, one timber yard, one wharf and one farm. Large boats from Scandinavia and Russia regularly deliver loads of shed, occasional ferries leave for the Baltic states and in the summer, you can take trips across the Crouch to Burnham. Otherwise the main attraction is the birdlife, wide open vistas and the tranquillity. The sea wall runs all around the island and gives great views along the Crouch, out to the North Sea and across to the mysterious isles of Foulness and Potton
Wallasea Island is currently undergoing a transformation. Five years ago the northern sea wall was breached to recreate a new wetland for wildlife and to try to halt the loss of such habitats. A new sea wall has been built along the northern shore overlooking the new lagoons, mudflats and artificial islands. Most of the interesting birds seemed to have left but I did spot a pair of little egrets. The RSPB have a plan to turn the rest of the island in a vast wetland area of marsh, mudflats and lagoons. Apparently the spoil from the Crossrail scheme in London will be brought by ship to Wallasea to raise land levels. All this is planned to happen over the next ten years to recreate the wetland landscape.
I walked around the island on a bright, sunny afternoon accompanied by a bitingly cold easterly wind. I made the most of Wallasea’s attractions, camped at the campsite, ate at the pub, watched the timber being unloaded and stared at the beautiful people on their boats. To me, the most attractive thing about the island was the vast emptiness of the place. The new sea wall runs eastwards for about two and half miles to Wallasea Ness, where the Roach and Crouch meet. There are information boards explaining the wetlands development taking place on the northern shore. On the opposite shore is the attractive town of Burnham-on-Crouch, a popular port for yachting types.
About halfway along the northern shore is a large pylon, which turned out to be a webcam covering the shore line to monitor to the development of the saltmash and mudflats. It made me feel a bit nervous when I had to answer a call of nature as there are no trees or bushes on Wallasea. From the end of the sea wall I got a glimpse of the Dengie peninsula on the northern shore and turning south along the Roach, I spotted the church on Foulness. The actual footpath ends about halfway along the eastern shore but unwillingly to turn back and in the absence of a ‘no entry’ sign, I decided to continue around the island.
It was quite tough to walk along the top of the sea wall on the southern shore, due to the thick grass so I walked along the base out of the wind, popping up every so often to admire the view and to spot places I’d seen on previous walks. I thought I was going to regret my trespass when, on reaching the end of the sea wall, I was met by a very locked gate and tall, spikey fence. Luckier than I deserved, I spotted a small gap in the defences and was able to squeeze through and five minutes later was back in Archie imbibing a reviving cuppa.
To see more pictures of Wallasea Island click here.
To see pictures of the Thames Estuary click here.
Sunday 2 May 2010
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