The only WAY is Essex!

After tramping around the coast and borders of Essex, I thought it was time to tackle the Essex Way, the premier long distance route in my beloved home county. It runs from Epping Station to Harwich in the far north east 82 miles away. I've already walked the beginning part about three times previously as long ago as 2006, accompanied by the faithful hound, Noddy, and the last part on my coastal walk in 2010. Armed with official guide, (kindly provided by Jason of the Public Rights of Way team, and from which I will plagiarise shamelessly for the blog), I set off on the first leg in a blaze of autumnal sunshine following the poppy signs.


Epping to Ongar 7½ miles

The first part of the walk involves walking downhill for about half a mile and then uphill for the next two on what is the highest part of the whole route, to Gernon Bushes, a part of Epping Forest. Once across the M11, the route follows a bridleway through the remains of Ongar Park wood and then along a ridge with fine views to the south of places very close to home, Havering Ridge and further afield to Canary Wharf. It was here on a previous walk I spotted a herd of deer. Next stop is the village of Toot Hill and the Green Man Pub where I had lunch (tuna sandwich and orange juice and lemonade, if anyone is interested).

Between Toot Hill and Greensted the views are less open, following footpaths through paddocks and past large houses, one with an annoying alarm ringing. I was dreading one section which goes through four or five paddocks in quick succession. But the stiles had been replaced by springy metal gates and the horses were absent. Just before Greensted Church, the path actually runs through the yard in front of a converted barn, but I opted to walk around.

St Andrews Church is the highlight of the day. Possibly the oldest wooden church in the world, it has a Crusader's grave by the front porch and a Leper's squint in the rear wall, from where the afflicted could observe the service and a pretty white tower and broach spire very common in south Essex. It's just a mile through the grounds of Greensted Hall and fields to the finishing point in Ongar where I'd left Archie, for a bun and a cup of tea.


My impressions of the first leg; it's a very green walk only crossing five roads (or six, if you include the M11), well signposted throughout (apparently our county flower is the poppy) and only four stiles and one very uninterested horse. However in the bright sunshine I managed to miss a sign and had to suffer the indignity of being given directions by other walkers! The paths around Epping are well used and I met a whole peleton of mountain bikers on a green lane near Stewards Green. I experienced a certain amount of walk rage after nearly getting creamed on a fairly narrow bit. No bells, very few thank-yous and an inability to share. You've been warned!

A great first day.

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