EB5 Lee Valley

From Sewardstone the walk turns north and for next 40 miles or so the border is delineated by water, firstly the Lee Navigation and then the Stort Navigation. The river Lea is the traditional western border of Essex, separating us from Middlesex. The lower reaches have been lost to Greater London but that still leaves 20 miles of riverside walking to Dobbs Weir, where to Lea heads off into Hertfordshire. The Lea Valley Walk covers all 58 miles of the River Lea from Leagrave near Luton to Limehouse Basin on the Thames. The naturally flowing bit is called the Lea, the canalised bit is known as the Lee. The Lee Valley Regional Park stretches from 26 miles from Ware in Hertfordshire to the Thames. It provides watery leisure space for Londoners, nature reserves for wildlife and the home for white water canoing for the 2012 Olympics.

Waltham Abbey, as the name suggests, once had an Abbey, famous for being the last resting place of King Harold, possibly. His grave was behind the high alter, but as much of the abbey church and buildings disappeared in the Reformation, now he's marooned in the Abbey Gardens. The gardens are now a public park and there are plenty of information boards around to explain what remains of the monastery buildings. Waltham Abbey has some nice old half timbered buildings, a tiny museum with a fabulous piece of wood panelling on loan from the V & A and a rather old-fashioned tea shop where I had lunch.


The Lee Valley Park has a couple of campsites and I took advantage of the one on the Essex side of the river at Sewardstone. I rather think took advantage of me, charging £17.50 a night in the depths of November. I wasn't very impressed with the facilities; only one toilet block open; one cubicle out of action; showers that had no clothes pegs or stools. The best thing you can say about the site is that it was convenient for the walks I wanted to do. I expect they'll make a mint during the Olympics. I won't be going back.

Walk 8 This was a short circular walk from the campsite to link up with the previous walk. The weather was sunny but hazy obscuring the view from the top of Gilwell Hill across the Lee Valley and King George's Resevoir. The Scouts have an big campsite with an amazing obstacle course, somehow I managed to resist sliding down the big tubes. It would have been embarassing if I got stuck. From Sewardstone I took a footpath on the very edge of Essex back to the campsite. A muddy 2.5 miles


Walk 9 In complete constrast to the previous walk, the weather was dull, dark, dank and dismal. The route to Waltham Abbey hugged the Essex border by the Lee and crossed the Greenwich Meridian at some point. Surprisingly rural, I got to Waltham Abbey having only crossed one road. It was all a bit boggy until reaching Gunpowder Park, which is laid out with all-weather paths to encourage cyclists. This is a relatively new park, having previously been a Royal Ordnance munitions testing site, which has left some odd humps behind. The highlight for me was, obviously, Cob Hill, which I'm sure has a very nice view when it's not raining. I arrived at Waltham Abbey in time for lunch. A slightly damp 5.5 miles


Walk 10 Suitable replete, I set off for a circular walk around the Lee Valley Country Park leaving the Abbey gardens via a handy underpass. The country park has been created from old gravel pits, so is very popular with bird watchers. I'm not sure that November is the best time for a visit though. I headed towards Fishers Green via Cornmill meadows and returned along the canal towpath which fortunately, is on the Essex bank at this point. A few hardy souls were aboard moored boats but no one was taking their cruiser for a spin. I arrived back at Waltham Abbey in the gathering gloom to catch the hourly bus back to camp. Too late I realised I was at the wrong stop and made vague effort at running. To my amazement the bus driver took pity on me and picked me up. I was most effusive in my thanks. A watery 6.5 miles

Walk 11 Three months later and it's back to Fishers Green. This time I employed the services of a local guide a nature expert, Frankie. I should have listened to her as we headed off towards Nazeing as we had to retrace our steps as a promised footpath failed to materialise. We followed cycle route no 1 over Clayton Hill, in and around Nazeing and eventually rejoined the Lee towpath just south of Dobbs Weir. There was a good view from the hill over the Lee valley, if you avoid looking at Harlow. Very enjoyable 6 miles

Completed distance 80 miles

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EB5 Lee Valley