Thursday 7 May 2009

A Scilly day out

When I lifted my curtain this morning I was very pleased to see the control tower of nearby Land’s End airport as today is the day of my trip to the Scillies. Yesterday, the airport and most of the campsite were swamped in grey murky mist and so the weather looked kind for my trip. I set away so promptly that I was upgraded to an earlier flight. At the checkin desk, they not only weight your luggage but you as well. I was lucky not to be charged for excess baggage after the numerous cream teas I’ve eaten.

The plane was a Cessna that carried eight people and the pilot in a space rather smaller than the interior of my van. Everyone got a window seat but the best ones are right behind the pilot. It’s a short, noisy but uneventful trip to St Mary’s, the largest island in the Scillies. Land appeared after about ten minutes, green fields and white sandy beaches dotted about in the Atlantic.

Once disembarked from the plane, I headed across the island to the highest point, Telegraph Hill (167ft), about a mile away and clearly visible from the airport. Despite its tiny size, Telegraph Hill has all the attributes of a proper top, it’s a hill and it’s got the obligatory aerial (or two) as well as a weird round building and a telephone box as markers.

Having rapidly dispensed with the business part of the trip, I was free to enjoy the rest of the island in the mild vaguely sunny weather. From Telegraph Hill, I picked up the coastal footpath across the golf course to St Mary’s. There were fine views across to the other islands. The path emerged by Juliet’s Garden Restaurant so I popped in for some tea and cake (seemed rude not to.) Once the food arrived I was joined by some birdlife with a serious addiction to cake and no fear. It was like a scene from the Birds!

I wandered through Hugh Town and did a circuit of the Garrison Walls with splendid views in all directions, taking in all the other islands. Visibility was good and I could see the Bishop’s Rock Lighthouse, with its distinctive helicopter pad about six miles south west of St Mary’s.
Hugh Town looked a little jaded as everyone was recovering from World Gig Boat Racing Championships, which is THE major social event in the Scillies.

Sadly, the weather turned in the afternoon and a soft rain was gonna fall so I retired to yet another tea shop until it improved. I had clear blue skies for the flight home in a slightly larger plane that had a crew of two. The plane did a sweep across the islands which I’m sure was for the amusement of the passengers, so for the first ( and possible last) time I got to fly over a top.

So what do people come all this way for (if not to climb to the highest point.) Most seem to come so they can leave again to visit the other islands, the most popular being Tresco with its famous Abbey gardens. All kinds of boat trips were on offer, sightseeing, wildlife spotting and evening supper trips. St Mary’s has a coastal path, with easy walking and great views. There are even a couple of nature reserves. The only museum was shut though. There were numerous potteries and studios and shops for those who enjoying spending money on holiday. I think you have to enjoy peace and quiet, a more relaxed pace of life and tea shops to get the best out of a holiday here.

The Scillies are pretty remote, there’s only one boat and it takes over three hours from Penzance. However on the quayside a spotted a man using his dongle and everyone had a mobile phone, so not too remote then.

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